Overland Expo Road Trip, Day Ten


The sun woke me before 6, which I didn’t appreciate. I did want to spend time in the petrified forest, and I guess it would be good long term.

I packed and started back east, riding into the sun. I felt a little shakey, and decided to get something non camp food to eat. There was a Denny’s next to the fast station, so I called it a winner and got a grand slam with huge pancakes. It was more food than I’d had since the BBQ in Texas, and was worth the $10.

But I wasn’t there to eat, and I reached the Petrified Forest National Park around 9. There weren’t many people around.

The Petrified Forest National Park is actually two parks, with the petrified wood in the southern part, and the Painted Desert in the north (where I had entered).

I hadn’t even known the Painted Desert (Coronado gave it the name – yeah that Coronado) was even there. It was impressively beautiful, red stone in the north and trending blue as we went south.

As cool as the desert was, I was there for the trees. Now, I think everyone has a mental image when they hear the word “forest,” I know I did, and the petrified forest isn’t it.

image

There are three collections of petrified trees in the park – Jasper, crystal, and rainbow. Jasper has an overlook and the others hiking paths. The trees were petrified after falling down and being swept into a lake bed, where they were covered with silt. The silt contained enough silica to replace the organic components of the cells.

Jasper once was full of examples but for the first few decades after it was discovered tourists would collect bits as souvenirs.
image

There isn’t much left anymore.

Crystal and Rainbow forests were also picked over, but you are allowed to get a little closer.

image

It really does look like wood, though even small bits are very heavy (since they’re stone and everything). Bits of quartz, colored with other minerals, had formed inside the logs –

image

These crystals account for the names, and they were also heavily pillaged until the park had enough patrols to prevent people from taking them. It was actually illegal in 1906, when Theodore Roosevelt declared the area a national monument, but that didn’t stop people. Even the presence of park rangers didn’t do much until there were enough of them.

It was late afternoon when we rolled out of the south end of the park, heading west again. I had one more planned stop before Flagstaff (where I had hotel reservation and plans for a much needed shower and laundry).

Meteor Crater (properly Barringer’s crater) is just off I40. A paid attraction rather than a national park, the crater claims to be the best preserved impact crater on the planet.

To give the picture some scale, 20 football games could be played simultaneously on the crater floor while two million people watched.

There are three viewing platforms, though the highest one was so windy as to be unvisitable. The others, still windy, were better and had hard mounted points to view specific areas of the crater and rim.

The attraction closed at 5, and a little after that I left, talking with a man in his 60s, traveling with his wife. He’d traveled on a motorcycle in North America with his father, both on Honda 350s, when he’d been much younger. He had seen Curiosity in the parking lot and had been looking for someone who looked like the rider. We talked about Alaska, now much different than when he’d been, and travel in general. Eventually, I had to get moving. The winds were still powerful and I had to ride into them.

I did reach the hotel, do laundry, shower (3 times), before heading to the expo.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Overland Expo Road Trip, Day Nine


I don’t know what my problem is with blog writing lately, although this one a day this is a bit of a chore (which its supposed to be, duh.)

I actually slept really well in the rest area, waking up around 6, packing and heading to the petroglyph national monument. My GPS seemed to be taking me in a different direction than the signs, so I followed to signs to the visitor center.

image

As it turns out, my GPS had the right idea. There are no petroglyphes at the visitor center, though there were chili’s.

image

The petroglyphes are spread out over a large area, so I picked one and headed for it. While technically free, there was a $1 parking fee, which I had to self pay.

image

The petroglyphes were all over the rocks, and there were several trails to follow. I hiked a couple, and while the Pueblo people (and their predecessors) didn’t have a written language, they clearly liked to draw.

image

image

image

I spend about three hours hiking, leaving as a school group showed up. I hoped on I-40, basically the only road I could take to flagstaff, and started west.

The winds were brutal, more or less right in my face and Curiosity, due for a valve adjustment, struggled to hold freeway speeds. I had hoped to camp at the Petrified Forest National Park, but learned there wasn’t actually camping there. After wasting a couple hours looking at private campgrounds I ended up in a state park, almost an hour away. As the wind beat at the tent I consoled myself I’d be riding with it in the morning.

image

Posted in Travel | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Overland Expo Road Trip, Day Eight


Oops, it seems I forgot to write this one. Not sure how I managed that, since I had time. All well.

I went through Roswell and looked at all the Alien stuff, and there is a lot of it.

image

image

image

I didn’t visit the museum this, having stopped there in 2011 when I last headed to the expo. In fact, I continued on that old route, stopping in Capitan to visit one of Blue’s famous relatives.

image

After paying our respects we stopped at the Smokey Bear restaurant, just blocks away, and I ordered the special -

image

It was pretty good, but not spectacular.

Back on the road, I tried to slow down some. I was logging a lot of miles, more than 300 a day and a couple over 400 – way more than I needed. Fatigue for me was a concern, and of course I was beating on Curiosity pretty hard. But, it’s easier to say “stop more often” than actually do it.

image

Just outside Capitan I met a KLR rider, dealing with a puncture. He’d already been stuck on the side of the road overnight, while his friend went to get a replacement tube – the current tube resisting being patches. He had all the tools he needed, more water than I did, and declined my offer of a spare tube (not the right size, but it would get him mobile). He expected his friend back within an hour or so, and even thought he had the punctured tube patched at last.

He told me about a rest area south of Albuquerque which was good for overnighting. I got there a little early, but saw what he meant. I’ve slept at rest areas before, on picnic tables under roofs, but never at one with little cabins.

image

I watched the sun set and the set up my stuff. I actually sport pretty well.

Posted in Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Overland Expo Road Trip, Day Seven


One week gone. I am not completely happy with the pace I’ve been setting, especially today when I knew I had plenty of time. I rode over 400 miles, almost to Roswell, before stopping.

I did stop to look at the Odessa Crater, the second largest meteor crater in the USA.

image

Although, to be honest, there isn’t much to see. The crater was almost completely filled in long ago, and its only the depression and different rock composition that show where it is. There had been a hole dug with scaffolding you could go down to the bottom, under all the dirt that had filled it in, but the scaffold burned down in the 50s and they just cemented over the hole.

Apart from that bit of tourism all I did was ride and ride more. In New Mexico I found a state park, although it was already late and I was starting to consider stealth camping. Long day and I was tired, but this place came along and I took it. The sunset was amazing.

image

And I had company to watch it.

image

Having seen them both I am confident an Alaskan Rabbit can take the New Mexico version anytime it wants.

The sun has set now and the sky is filling with stars the way that only happens in the desert. You should come see.

Posted in Travel | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Overland Expo Road Trip, Day Seven


One week gone. I am not completely happy with the pace I’ve been setting, especially today when I knew I had plenty of time. I rode over 400 miles, almost to Roswell, before stopping.

I did stop to look at the Odessa Crater, the second largest meteor crater in the USA.

image

Although, to be honest, there isn’t much to see. The crater was almost completely filled in long ago, and its only the depression and different rock composition that show where it is. There had been a hole dug with scaffolding you could go down to the bottom, under all the dirt that had filled it in, but the scaffold burned down in the 50s and they just cemented over the hole.

Apart from that bit of tourism all I did was ride and ride more. In New Mexico I found a state park, although it was already late and I was starting to consider stealth camping. Long day and I was tired, but this place came along and I took it. The sunset was amazing.

image

And I had company to watch it.

image

Having seen them both I am confident an Alaskan Rabbit can take the New Mexico version anytime it wants.

The sun has set now and the sky is filling with stars the way that only happens in the desert. You should come see.

Posted in Travel | Leave a comment

Overland Expo Road Trip, Day Six


I stayed up too late talking with my camp neighbors, who also insisted on feeding me (more). There were brief rain showers and some lightning in the distance, but nothing like the night before. They were up before me too, frying bacon. And, yeah, they shared that too.

I wasn’t far from San Antonio and the Alamo, but talking led to a later start. Since it was Saturday, traffic wasn’t anything bad. The Alamo was pretty well marked once I got downtown, so I just followed the signs.

Yeah, I said downtown. Right downtown, surrounded by hotels, Ripley’s attractions, and (not kidding) a mall.

image

Parking cost money, but entry to the Alamo is free. There are signs all over in the buildings, explaining the history of the site and the Mexican Civil War that the Texas independence was part of. Even how much of then-northern Mexico was swarmed with Americans who expected locals to accept they were American, and not completely subject to local law and custom.

That sounded disturbingly familiar.

image

For reasons I don’t understand there were a lot of English visiting. I was guessing a tour group, since they seemed to know each other, and they constantly asked guides about what the French were doing in the area. That had been interesting, but it was clear no one wanted to talk about it.
image

The rest of the remaining grounds was like a park, with cactus and this massive tree. There were paved walkways and even a coy pond.
image

Walking through the whole thing took a couple hours. I went to the River walk, which had been recommended to me and was interesting. This sort of waterfall through the city.
image

Then headed out of town. Like most western cities, it stretched on and on, but eventually I was clear.

I stopped for gas in Junction, planning to ride another 60 or 70 miles before finding camping. Looking at the map showed me there really wasn’t much past Junction, so instead I headed for the local state park. It was crowded, but some sites were left and it wasn’t loud. That was god enough for me.

Posted in Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Overland Expo Road Trip, Day Five


I camped just, and I mean just, outside Houston. The place claimed to be KOA, but was easily the worst KOA I’ve ever stayed at, and perhaps among the worst campgrounds in general. The tent area was tiny and doubled as the dog walking area, something not clear until after I’d paid and set up.

It seemed to house long term tenants, few of the cars I sae could pull the RVs they were parked next too. And despite the wifi I could barely get email to load.

They place just felt off, somehow.

There were huge storms around 2am, all the thunder and lightning you could want, and most of the tent area flooded (I planned for rain and claimed a high spot). It had stopped by the time I got up, and there were hints of sun. It wasn’t to last.

The goal of the day was to tour the Dreadnaught USS Texas, built before WWI and the last one on display here in the states (the Olympia is older, and not really a dreadnaught).

We got there after the park opened, but before the ship did, so we walked around some. The Texas is located in Battlefield Park, near the monument to Texas independence.

(Bigger than it looks).

I won’t get too much into the history, but Sam Houston (leading some Texans) beat some Mexicans (part of Santa Anna’s army, tho he wasn’t there), and this led to Texas being granted independence. Mostly.

The ship opened and I headed aboard. It was clear another storm was coming this way and I wanted to see the outside before (potentially) being forced inside.

Blue said he was ready to go, he just needed some help with the pedals.

We couldn’t find the way into the superstructure, there was a lot of construction and not all the parts of the ship were open. With it getting darker inside seemed like a good idea.

Little of the interior is finished in anything like a display. Lots of empty rooms and bare corridors, and and indications of how far the ship had decayed before renovations started.

Hard to tell, I guess, but the door was closed and that’s water on the floor.

There were some signs up,

And stuff on display

But on the whole it was clear the ship was a work in progress rather than a complete museum. I’ll need to come back when it’s done.

Back on the main deck it was very dark out. Refineries were sounding warning sirens and there was a lot of lightning in the distance.

Typically, we also found the way up to the Flag Bridge, and had to go. It started raining on the way up.

Impressive view, though.

We managed to get back to the visitor center as the rain really started to fall. And then it started to fall harder. One of the rangers came out and said we didn’t have to worry unless the sirens went off, and I mentioned they had already. He disappeared somewhere.

Tried to capture the water blowing off the gangplank there. It was raining mostly sideways.

Half an hour later or started to slacken, and 45 minutes after that it had stopped. The parking lot was mostly missing.

But Curiosity was okay, since I’d found higher ground.

Since it was right there I went over to the monument. It really was tall.

But they wanted money to go through a small room of displays so I passed. I’d spent a lot more time at the ship than I’d planned (with the monsoon and all). And felt the need to get moving.

100 miles west and I was desperately stripping layers under the bright sun and oppressive heat. I guess I shouldn’t complain.

50 miles or so short of San Antonio I found a state park to camp in. With more storms on the way and some doubt in my tent, the hammock went up.

It attracted attention, which surprised me a little, but it also won’t leak through the floor.

Next on my “I’m a tourist!” list – The Alamo.

Posted in Travel | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Overland Expo Road Trip, Day Four


The state park I camped in seemed deserted, though really it was just the tents-only loop I was on. I had picked a site near the water, and the frogs and birds were loud enough to wake me up in the morning.

image

So I can totally recommend it, if you happen to be in the area. Its right near Uncertain -

image

Which might be the greatest name for a town ever.

Today was the first day since leaving where I didn’t have sunshine at all. In fact is often felt like rain, and I stopped to put my pant liners back in, just in case. I did have a witness.

image

It was a grocery store parking lot, and I loitered for a few minutes to snack and watch traffic. A certain, subtle racism occurred to me, as all the African Americans used one drive, off to the side and almost behind the store, while whites used the one out front. There weren’t signs, of course, but it showed there was a clear split in where people lived, and how whoever built the store and its parking lot felt about it.

I had two goals for the day, one to get into the area of Houston so I could see the USS Texas tomorrow (Friday) and to get some decent BBQ.

image

Selecting the right place can be tricky – there are chains and fast food type places offering BBQ, but you need to find a smaller place, preferably with a lot of locals out front. I know there aren’t any in the picture, but I had a good feeling about this place, and it was 1115, a bit early.

Pit Stop did not disappoint.

image

Apart from being way over budget and more food than I’ve had at a single meal on this whole trip, it was fantastic. I completely differed to Chuck, who was I’m charge of loading food onto the plates, other than taking the double slaw option, instead of beans. I just don’t like beans.

About an hour and ten minutes later, when I felt like I could walk again, I got back on Curiosity and continued south. There were large storms to the west, over Dallas and Austin, but they didn’t seem to be moving much. Smaller storms were popping up along my route, so I did get rained on some, but it was a nonevent.

I had thought about riding through Houston and finding somewhere near Galveston to camp, but the long lunch had made me tired and I just didn’t feel up to city traffic. Stopping north of Houston. Meant I would be in the path of the storms, so I angled east, finding a private campground on Galveston Bay, a place called Tri-City Beach.

Its way more developed than I was expecting, although I know I shouldn’t be surprised. Frog noise won’t be a problem, but I have bail options if severe storms to hit. And it is on the bay, though I couldn’t find the beach.

image

Somewhat gloomy, I know. I blame the rain.

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Overland Expo Road Trip, Day Three


Third day on the road, and I’ll admit to a certain amount of fatigue. Clearly, I am out of practise, and the short ride (relatively) to Moonshine wasn’t enough to get all the rust off. Or callouses back.

I slept in the hammock last night, mostly because I could. I’d forgotten how comfortable that thing is, though I’m also out of practise setting it up.

image

I think the ridgeline is slipping inside, though I’m not sure how or why. Its definitely not as deep as it had been.

I fell asleep quickly and slept 10 hours, waking rested, though I also got a bad cramp when I tried to get out. A bit embarrassing, but it was 630 and no one was around to notice. It took me 40 minutes to shower, eat  and pack, which was way less than it took to get set up, and I was on the road crazy early.

Since I was out of fruit I stopped in Newport to get some bananas, and picked up a yogurt while I was there. I’d wanted a donut, but there were only large boxes to be had. I filled Curiosity and hit the road.

An hour or so later I stopped for a break and, seeing a large convienence store, decided try for donuts again. All this place had was Krispy Kreme, disappointing, but I got some anyway.

image

I had a choice of 67 or I30, and stayed on the interstate. 67 hadn’t been much better, and without rest areas or services signs. Late morning I stopped for gas and a cold drink. After filling up and while I was lunging in the shade the staff person came out and dropped the price 3c a gallon, so I’d paid almost 6c more than I would’ve at the new price.

image

Robbery.

Lunch was in a rest area, where I recorded a short vlog, and not long after that I rolled into Texas.

image

The visitor center was air conditioned and wonderful, and I forgot to ask about the Texas or Alamo. I wanted to be online for Motochat, a weekly twitter conversation about motorcycles, and time was running short. I found a gas station and then a McDonalds (free wifi), and lost about an hour and 20 minutes playing on the internet. I had a lot of email piled up, including some stuff I’d needed to reply to.

Back on the road I set my sights for a state park about an hour away (cabbo lake). One of the towns nearby had caught my attention.

image

I got here about 530, found a spot and set up. While I could’ve ha mocked again (given the heat I may wish I had), but wanted to try the new pad on the ground.

image

Also the tent meant I could be near the water. More bugs that way.

Back on the road tomorrow.

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Overland Expo Road Trip, Day Twp


I’ve slept in tent a lot in my life. I’ve even slept in tents on cement pads – but last night was awful. For reasons I don’t understand my earplugs weren’t helping with the traffic noise, and my sleeping pad kept deflating, requiring me to roll off it and blow it back up three times over night.

There wasn’t much I could do about the traffic noise, other than pay more attention to where I camped later, but St Louis has an REI, which meant I could do something about the pad.

image

My particular model was discontinued, but the replacement was covered by the refund and my REI dividend, so it worked out okay.

With that chore out of the way, I moved on to more important matters – a late breakfast.

image

I know people in the south are unimpressed by Waffle House, but for us northerners it remains an odd treat. I won’t go there all the time, but can’t resist the occasional visit when they’re around.

The shopping had put me behind schedule on the day, both taking me in the wrong direction and taking time. Not far south of St Louis I got onto US 67, which I’d been looking forward too. Sadly, it was still a four lane limited access highway (for the most part) so I didn’t gain much.

The scenery was different as I clipped the northern edge of the Ozarks, and there was much less traffic. What there was, was all big rigs, following the short route toward Little Rock.

Since there weren’t even rest areas I wandered off the highway for a bit to shoot video and walk around some.

image

Fredericktown was more or less random, and it hard to think of this area seeing battles in the Civil War, though of course it was around and involved. I just tend to focus on the eastern campaigns, like a lot of people I suppose.

image

I’ve never seen anything like this before, and would have misedyot completely except for my detour through town. Little bits of history you miss and never know.

I left Missouri and enter Arkansas (arrrgh Kansas-its where Kansas pirates all fled after the purges in the 1850s). There was a very nice visitor center, surprising on the little road, and a worker who desperately wanted to give me pamphlets. Maybe I should’ve grabbed the civil war driving tour one, but I limited myself to a map and moved on.

I’ve had wonderful weather since leaving, and its been getting steadily warmer as I work my way south, but there are still signs of the storms I’ve missed along the road.

image

There were signs of flooding along every river, fortunately only a couple houses like this one. With Wisconsin still getting snow I’d missed what was happening further south.

I decided to stop after 330 miles on the day, and found a state park near Newport AR. With lots of trees and a nice breeze I couldn’t resist the chance to hang the hammock -

image

Sadly, the breeze died and I was soon being followed by a small plague of mozzies. Probably for the best, getting me into the hammock as the sun sets. Two nights of less than perfect sleep is bad juju.

Posted in Travel | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment